Slugs and snails, insects, moss and lichen, moles and
mountain beavers: our gardens are filled with flora and fauna that we did not
invite. The tricky part is to know when to act and when to sit back and simply
enjoy the suburban-scale wild kingdoms that are our backyards. Welcome to a new
feature that will explore the common yet curious creatures that share our
outdoor spaces.
Sharing the Lawn With the Creatures at Our Feet
Before we begin
I should admit that my lawn would bring
the average suburban home-owners’ association roaring up the drive with torches
and pitchforks. Years ago we tilled up the grass under the fruit trees and
planted Eco-turf, a blend of flowers and who-remembers-what-else that turned
our lawn into a mini meadow. Though all that remains are the English daisies (Bellis perennis,
which have
taken over the entire lawn), the effect is wondrous in spring when the cheery
white daisies seem a reflection of the apple blossoms above. We’re happy, the
kids and dogs are happy (and healthy), and the bugs and moss are ecstatic.
Moss
Speaking
of moss: why is it so maligned? Moss is, after
all, the Northwest’s native ground cover. It’s soft, it grows in the shade, and
it never needs mowing or feeding. If the spot is shady, give up on grass and
grow moss (or a nice perennial shade garden). If you insist on killing moss, be
aware that iron sulfate and ferrous ammonium sulfate often don’t finish the job
and may be lethal to pets that lick it off their paws. And don’t even think
about letting the kids out to roll around for a week or two. A safer choice is
moss-killing soap, which also can be used on roofs and patios. In the lawn, you
must “thatch-out” the dead moss and make the conditions more grass
friendly—proper drainage, light, fertilizer, water and mowing—or the moss will
return.
Fairy ring
Fairy rings are little crop circles devised by alien
mushrooms. All right, the mushrooms aren’t really alien (as far as we know),
but they are magical with a concentrically expanding growth pattern and a
lifespan of perhaps a hundred years! There’s no good remedy to these persistent
fungi, so learn to live with and love them—besides, you don’t want to annoy the
fairies.
Clover
Clover is another so-called pest that’s actually
good for
grass. Clover plucks nitrogen directly from the air and fixes it in the soil,
providing a natural supplement to expensive fertilizers. And while we’re fixing
nitrogen, let’s leave our clippings on the lawn when we mow. Contrary to common
belief they don’t create thatch; instead they return up to a quarter of the
lawn’s nitrogen requirements.
Weed-and-feed concerns
When it’s
time to feed the lawn, think twice before buying
that bag of weed-and-feed. The “weed” part of the equation is often the
herbicide 2,4-D, which has been linked to lymphatic cancer in dogs and shows
evidence of neurotoxicity, lymphoma and reproductive damage in humans. Tracked
into the home, 2,4-D may persist for up to a year. According to the National Coalition
for Pesticide-free Lawns, of 30 commonly used lawn pesticides 19 are linked
with cancer or carcinogenicity, 13 with birth defects, 21 with reproductive
effects, 26 with liver or kidney damage, 15 with neurotoxicity, and 11 with
disruption of the endocrine (hormonal) system. Every year, 100 million pounds
of pesticides are used in homes and gardens by the homeowners themselves, not
including those applied by professionals. Makes clover seem pretty attractive,
doesn’t it? Organic fertilizer—minus the weed killer—is a far safer choice.
Broadleaf weeds such as dandelions can be hand-popped or spot-treated with
straight white vinegar on a hot, sunny day. Or live with the dandelions and
keep the grass mowed to two inches tall to prevent seedheads.
Crane fly
No
discussion of lawn pests would be complete without that
boogeyman of the turf, crane fly. Adult crane flies, known colloquially as
daddy-long-legs, hover above the lawn in late summer to lay their eggs. Yellow
jackets are one good predator of the adults. Crane fly larvae, or
leatherjackets, feed on grass crowns. Every year, fear of crane fly causes
lawns across western Washington to be doused with insecticide “just in case.”
Here’s what the spray companies won’t tell you: crane fly larvae are rarely a serious
problem. Treatment is recommended only if they are present in huge numbers—more
than 40 per square foot; the vast majority of lawn problems attributed to crane
fly have other causes. To monitor leatherjacket populations, cut four 6x6-inch
squares of turf in different areas of the lawn in February. Count the larvae in
each, multiplying the number by four for the square-foot total. Be aware that
treatment for crane fly kills earthworms and many other soil organisms. Stop
chasing away the starlings and they’ll eat them (the starlings will eat the
crane fly, that is; if it’s the other way around… bring on the chemicals!).
Slime mold
One of the most fascinating of all life forms is the slime
mold. Every bit as weird as it sounds, the appearance of this mutant blob in
lawn or garden is a real call-the-kids moment. Is it animal? Is it vegetable?
Here’s the best part: they move! Yup, like a giant amoeba flowing (very slowly)
over the surface to ingest organic matter. Slime molds aren’t true fungi. There
are many different forms from delicate cauliflower shapes to those that look
like something the dog threw up. They are often brightly colored, like the
yellow spongy one that made itself at home in my veggie garden for a short
time. Yes, they can be gotten rid of; no, I’m not going to tell you how. Slime
molds are harmless and will eventually creep back to the mother ship.
Lawn care: for too many of
us it’s like getting up in the
morning and taking everything in the medicine cabinet—just in case. Many
insecticides and herbicides for the lawn are broad spectrum killers; maybe a
lot broader than we know. To be safe, go home and Google the active ingredient
of any pesticide before you buy. With tolerance and a little education we can
start our own grassroots movement, bringing good health to more than just the
lawn.
Grow your own moss
Add
equal parts buttermilk and water to a blender. Throw in a big handful of moss
and blend well. Pour over the desired area. Keep moist until moss is well
established. Moss may need water in dry summers. To see the best of moss as a
ground cover, visit the Bloedel Reserve on Bainbridge Island. Reservations are
required, call 206-842-7631 or visit www.bloedelreserve.org.
